Tuesday 9 November 2010

Kathrine Gorge

It was really refreshing to see some civilization (Kathrine) after 3.5 days of wilderness. After an expansive hour (8 dollars) on the Internet, a short and a very useful visit in the information center and the obligatory visit in the Woolworth (the local supermarket network), we were ready to explore the Northland. We started with Edith falls, about 15 km north to Kathrine. We wished to do the longer trail that goes to the upper pools as well. When we got to the campsite near the falls, we saw a family wearing an insect nets on their heads. We thought it was funny. Ten minutes after the beginning of the walk that wasn't funny at all.
There were dozens of flies all around us wherever we went, no matter how fast we went. There are definitely the most irritating creatures on earth. They are not interested in biting you, all they want is to make their annoying buzz close to your ears and try to sit on your face. They made the walk unbearable. Luckily for us, at the end of the trail we got to an amazing pool with small waterfalls. You can imagine how happy we were to jump in to it and to get rid of our annoying entourage. Only after that Oren took all the pictures that had to be taken.


Other than the flies this walk is highly recommended. The falls and the reddish rocks around them are the most impressive thing you'll find in the area, even better than the Kathrine gorge itself, just look at the pictures.


The following morning Lilya said "Too bad we don't meet any Israelis who could join us... That could be nice". Her complaint got to the right address, because on the same day we met Aviv. Aviv is a 38 year old high-school teacher that took a year off to think things over. There's no place like Australia for that. We met by accident in the Katherine Gorge campsite, when he was setting his tent not far from ours after coming back from a long hike. We offered him to join us in our journey north. He's plans were different, but we were so charming he couldn't refuse... how could he? As we were talking to Aviv, a big guy on a bike arrived. Apparently, he hit a buffalo on his way. He got away with few bruises, we wonder how the buffalo was doing... We did a few hours walk next to the gorge, which was very hot (about 40 degrees) but not very exciting since you don't get to see a lot of the gorge or the river, but we did see few very beautiful black cockatoos. We spent the evening enjoying the company of Aviv and a local country singer, who sang songs in the background.



The amazing thing about the Katherine gorge campsite is that it is really full of wildlife, and we are not talking about the flies. There is an enormous amount of wallabies all around you. During the day they keep a certain distance from humans, small enough for Oren to take hundreds of pictures. But during the night, they are aware to the human helplessness in the dark, so they can get really close to the human habitat. In the matter of fact on of them was blocking the entrance to our tent, and was very surprised when we wanted to enter it.
The best way to see Kathrine Gorge is by a canoe. We rented one for the whole day on the next morning. The weather was on our side once again, if you consider 38 degrees to be on our side. The river was very wide and the stream wasn't very intense. It was so slow that there wasn't any difference between going up and down the stream. The river is divided into several gorges. In order to move from one to the next one you need to pass a rocky part while you are carrying (dragging) the canoe. If you rent the canoe only for half a day, you get to go only till the second gorge, but not to enter it. You can also see few ancient Aboriginal paintings on the border between the two gorges.



The rowing was quite intense for inexperienced rowers like us. We made it to the border between the third and the fourth gorge and then turned in order to go back. The nice thing about the canoeing is that you can stop whenever you want and take a dip in the pleasant water. You only need not to do it in the sweet water crocodiles nesting areas. We returned exhausted in the late afternoon and took another dip in the river.
That night we stayed in a very special place, Springvale Homestead 7 km from Katherine. It was built in 1880's by few guys that came the whole way from South Australia together with 2500 cattle and 12000 sheep. This journey took them about 20 months. The place itself is very beautiful, the tents are placed very close to a nice swamp full of colourful lilies. Too bad we couldn't stay there longer than one night.
On the next day we picked up Aviv from Katherine and continued north to Kakadoo National Park.

Tip 1: Edith Falls are very beautiful, even if you don't do the whole trail to the higher pools. If you do, you better bring something to cover your face from the harassing flies.
Tip 2: The best way to see Kathrine Gorge is by a canoe. It is better to rent it for the whole day, that way you can see the more interesting parts of the gorge.
Tip 3: If you have a car, and you are looking for a place to stay near Katherine, Springvale Homestead is a wonderful place.
Tip 4: Aviv has a travel blog that is really worth the visit (written in Hebrew): http://wanderinginthefog.wordpress.com/

2 comments:

  1. תשלים בבקשה את טיפ 3.

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  2. מעניין מאד מה שכתבתם.נראה לי שזו היתה חוויה מיוחדת במינה,היום הזה.

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