La Paz

Some people love it, some really don't, one thing is sure, its name is misleading. La Paz means "The Peace", but there is nothing peaceful about it. Most parts of the city resemble a third world market. Everywhere you go there are Cholas (traditional looking women) selling something. Most of the streets are informal markets, but in addition to that there is one big official market that sprawls over few dozens of blocks. It reminded us the market of Istanbul. There is a street for every purpose. A street for knits, a street for underwear, a street for plumbing... you just need to find the one you need. Since we love markets we also loved La Paz.
In the center of the city there is a witch market. In those few streets you can buy all kinds of witchcraft, potions, gifts for Pachamama and dried alpaca's babies or even embryos. We didn't bother to ask what is it good for, it was too creepy. In this area you can find most of the cheep hostels. The prices begin with about 3 dollars for a person, but those places are really bad. After spending few nights in various places we found the perfect place for us. It was an old and red colonial house with internal patio full with climbing plants, and more important with real hot water all day long.
Surprisingly enough, in La Paz we had few very good culinary experiences. But Bolivian cuisine can not take credit for that. We were so frightened by other travelers and didn't have any free time to get sick in, that we decided to skip the local street food (which made Lilya very sad) and eat only in touristic places. And there are few really good ones, as you can see in the tips. The prices in those places are much higher than street food (about 5 dollars for the main course), but that way you can be sure all the food was washed with purified water, and the meat met a refrigerator at least once in its life.

General tip: You should be aware to the fact that La Paz can also be dangerous. Try to stay in the center, in places with a lot of people. Beware of fake policemen, fake tourists, fake money and fake taxi drivers.
Tip 1: Marrakech (Jimenes 774, near Santa Cruz st.)- A great, but very small, Moroccan restaurant. Their Couscous del la casa with lamb is wonderful.
Tip 2: In plaza San Fransisco there is an old colonial building right on the corner. On its left side (when facing the building) there is an elevator that can take you to the 7th flour, which is also a roof. On that roof there is a very cheep but very good cafe and a great view on the main square. The name is Campaniero... or something like that.
Tip 3: Thai Palace (Linares 947) is a really good Thai/Indian/Japanese restaurant.
Tip 4: Sol y Luna (at the corner of Murillo and Cochabamba). The place belongs to a Dutch guy. They serve very good authentic food from all over the world (except from Bolivia).
Tip 5: There are a lot of good places to eat in Sagarnaga street. Two of them are really recommended: the "100% Natural" has great breakfasts. The Cuban restaurant "Sabor de Cuba" is a restaurant that you just can´t miss! They make great Cuban food. Try the dish that is called "Ropa Viejo" (old clothes)
Tip 6: The best hostel we've been in Bolivia. Blanquita on Santa Cruz st., 20 meters below Jimenes st.
Tip 7: On the corner of Sagarnaga and Illampu there is a really good tailor that makes repairs for everything: shoos, clothes, backpacks, backpack covers, whatever you need...