Sunday, 28 March 2010

Pictures

New pictures from El Chalten and the Fitz Roy are now available

Friday, 26 March 2010

El Chalten and the Fitzroy trek

Well, we have already decided. In the long lasting debate about which trek is better, The Torres del Paine beats the Fitzroy 41:36. Not to say that the Fitzroy is not beautiful. On the contrary! The Fitzroy trek gave us the best sunrise until now. Think of the opening statement as a great complement to the Torres del Paine. If you have only few days in Patagonia, go to the Torres. However, if you have more time, or if you prefer a place that is suitable for long day hikes - you should definatly visit El Chalten and the Fitzroy.
The way from Puerto Natales to El Chalten takes you through the relaxed but very touristic town El Calafate, where we started our Argentinian part of the trip. We slept there in a hospedaje, which is kind of a small guesthose that is located in the back of the house of a family, so basically you pass through their livingroom on your way to the room. Alechandra, the seniora of the hospadaje, is an old lady that looks and behaves like a wicked Eastern European house owner. As soon as we told her that we are from Israel, she narrowed her eyes into two thin slits and said in a terrifying voice: "NO AMIGOS!", which actually means: "I know you Israelies - taking one room and sleep with all the group". We agreed quickly and Alechandra took us to our room which was nice and cheap.
The main reason to visit El Calafate, except for the bus to El Chalten, is to see the Perito Moreno. This is a large glacier which is quite active and has won the nickname "The smashing glacier". The glacier moves about 2 meters every day, dropping pieces, that can be as small as an apple or as large as a 3 stories building to the water. These pieces smashes into the water with a sound of a thunder. There are, alas, more of the apple size falling pieces then the large building sized pieces, so most of the unpatient visitors might have quite a disappointing show. We, however, were lucky to see a large piece falls to the water when we joined an hour cruise to the far side of the glacier. Later, after the cruise we spend couple of hours on the large decks that are spread all over the peninsula that looks on the glacier. The lonely planet recommended to take the late bus to the glacier, which leaves at 13:30 and comes back at 20:30. That was a pretty dumb idea! It gets dark and cold at least an hour before that and the cafiteria closes at 18:30, so we just sat an hour in the bathrooms because it was the only warm place around.
The next stop was El Chalten which is a lovely, (very) little town in the valley near the Fitzroy and the Cerro Torre mountains. We´ve started the Fitzroy trek at the same day. We hiked to Laguna Torre, which has a nice lookout towards the pointed teeth that are the Cerro Torre and its fellow mountains. From the laguna we took the hard way to the Poincenot campsite that passes near the mother and daugther lakes (Lagunas Madre y Hija) . The next morning (if 5:30AM can be considered as morning...) we went up to see the colorfull sunrise. A hour of steep climb took us to the Los Tres Laguna where we saw the Fitzroy turns red for 3 minutes, not before waiting in the cold cold wind for almost an hour. One thing you´ll never take from Patagonia, it does have amazing sunsets and sunrises. We came back to town only to find that we have two extra days in the town before we can catch the bus to Bariloche. We spent the next day doing small hikes to two lookouts and a waterfall. At the evening, we got the full Argentinian experience when we ate two 420g steaks for less than 10$ each, and drank some wine.
Today we are homeless, but we´ll also join the large Israeli migration towards Bariloche and get there right in time for Pessah.


Ver Treks en un mapa más grande

Tip 1: Take the cruise in the Perito Moreno. It is not that expensive (about 12$) and it's worth the money.
Tip 2: Don't take the late bus to the Perito Moreno. Why? If you're asking that, you haven't read the post carefully.
Tip 3: Don't miss the waterfall north to El Chalten. It's less than an hour of easy walk from the town.
Tip 4: 10$ for a good 420g steak in Ahonikenk Chalten in the main square of El Chalten. Need we say more?

Monday, 22 March 2010

Pictures

We´ve added some pictures from the Perito Moreno (The smashing glacier)

Friday, 19 March 2010

Pictures

We have uploaded the photos from the Torres del Paine trek.

Puerto Natales and the Torres del Paine

Hola!
It means hello in spanish, it also means that you are in South America. Even if you are Chinese meeting another Chinese from your home town you will ¨hola¨ each other when passing.
But lets start at the beginning. Our trek to Torres del Paine was supposed to start with a bus picking us up from the hostel at 7:30 a.m on Sunday, but it didn´t. Apparantly, our Seniora (the landlady) was supposed to remind the bus, but she woke up to late...¨La falta¨ as she described it. So our departure was delayed until 14:30. We used this time to sleep a bit more and to visit the church, of course (since it was Sunday).
After few hours drive we arrived to the Torres del Paine. There we had to take a catamaran to the beginning of the trek. The main trail of the park looks like a W. We planned to finish the left (west) wing of the W on the first day. Because of the delay we had little time to do so. On the catamaran we met a group of people who intended to complete this part even thought it was quite late. So we decided to join them. We´ve had to do it in about 3 hours with all the equipment on our back (because it was already getting a bit dark). During the walk, it turned out that this group was part of a science expedition that has just returned from a month and a half in Antartica. Most of them were Geology and Paleontology (just like Ross!) students from USA and Sweeden, who were sent there as part of their studies. It seems that we have picked the wrong profession...
The next day we went north to see Glasier Grey. There was nothing Grey about it, it was very blue. The path to it goes through a beautiful forest near an amazing lake with small icy islands in it.
In general, the park is very well addapted for hiking. The trails are very well marked most of the time. There are lots of people of different ages and nationalities hiking around. But it was never too crowded. The park is also very clean, we haven´t seen even one piece of junk for five days.
Every now and then there is a campsite and ¨Refujios¨ which are a sort of a mountain cabins, which included 4 walls and a place to put your sleeping bag and cost about 50$ per person. It is also possible to purchase some food there, but the prices are high (6$ for a pack of pasta). We preffered to stay in our tent. We and all the mice around us enjoyed our pasta and monosodiun glotomat very much.
On the third day we left most of our equipment in the campsite and went to see the French valley. On the way we passed near a stormy lake. The strong wind raised a lot of water drops that turned into a rainbow in the morning sun and it was trully beautiful. The valley itself is a narrow valley surounded by sharp peaks covered with snow. There is a difficult climb up to the top of the valley where we passed by the narrowest part, where the river, that has created this valley flows down furiously, very close to the path. The climb continued until we arrived at the point where the 3 marble peaks that are the Torres del Paina can be seen from the rear side. The sun was perfect and view was amazing.
On our way back we met a very nice Corean girl who was travelling alone. As we walked together, it seemed as if she knew every second person we met.
The next day we took the catamaran back in the dirrectione of the Torres. Because of lack of time or energy we couldn´t do anything else that day.
At night we set up a campfire, and invited few other Israelis we met to join us for coffee and wine. The sky there was absolutely amazing, and of course very different from the northern sky we are used to. Oren desided to take a picture with a long exposure time. That picture finished his battery...He spent the next day looking for people that also had a Nikon in order to borrow their battery, so he can picture the Torres. Fortunately enougth, he found few. The climb to the Torres was quite steep, but the classic view of the Torres and the lake in front of them was worth the muscle ache.
Now we have a day in Puerto Natales before leaveing to El Calafate in Argentina.
Chao!
(Thats another word in spanish that you have to use in posts when you're in South America)



Tip 1: You can find very cheap accommodation in Puerto Natales. We had a twin bedroom in only 10$ per person, including breakfast, in Josmar hostel in Esmeralda and Prat.
Tip 2: The Israeli secret: all you can eat meats on the grill for 10$ in Juan hostel in Magallanes street. Look for the big Israeli flag in the window. Juan also has lectures about the Torres del Paine in Hebrew every day at 16:00.
Tip 3: Take the time to see some guanacos near the park enterance. Take few hours to move away from the enterance on the road to the catamaran and you´ll see them everywere.
Tip 4: In some of the campsites in the trek there are showers and electricity. Also, you don´t have to carry water with you - fill a small bottle with water from the small waterfalls on the way.

Saturday, 13 March 2010

Pictures

We´ve added the photos from Santiago and Valparaiso to the First days album:


and some pictures, that we thought were lost but were recovered, from Punta Arenas:

Friday, 12 March 2010

Punta Arenas

Arriving to Punta Arenas at night is like entering a thriller book. The windy streets are empty except for the occassional sleeping dog. The city looks like an abandoned ghost town somewhere between the Australian desert and a Stephan King´s book.
We arrived late, after the most beautiful flight we´ve ever had, above an unbelievable view of volcanos, mountains, glaciers and wide planes.
The hostel we were in is not your usual European style hostel. It is run by a young familly which is hardlly clean or organized, so it basically feels as if you stumble upon a young couple and they agreed to host you in their spare room if you agree to play a little with their young (and a bit annoying) son. They also had a computer, full with viruses, that killed 3 days of our photos. Small price to pay for the lesson we´ve recieved - never connect your hard drive in a familly hostel!
The next day we went to the Mecca of the travellers in south Chile - the tax free zone in the far end of Punta Arenas (the Zona Franca). In the Doite travelling shop you can find some pretty cheap cooking gear as well as some tents, sleeping bags and warm clothes. The variety is not too great, though. Later that day we took a nice pinguineros tour. The driver took us to a private reserve, an hour from the town, where there is a marked walking path that leads to a gathering place of the pinguins near the shore. On the way you can find some of the more publicity hunting pinguins that model for the photographers some classical, 'Happy feet' style, pinguin moves like the 360 degrees spin of the head or looking at the sky while openning their mouth. The photographers, us included, gargled with joy and everyone were happy. Too bad that most of the pictures where lost because of the virus.
We are now in Puerto Natales, getting ready to start the Toress del-Paina trek tommorow. The next update will be after we´ll be back, 5 or 6 days from now.

Tuesday, 9 March 2010

Chile - the land of the sleeping dogs

It's a bit strange. Everywhere you go around here, you can find dogs, most of them are asleep. It's something they don't tell you before you get here. You can understand how hard it is for me (Lilya) to stay away from them. But you must be proud of me, I didn't touch not even one!
We arrived here 2 days ago. The landing was alright, but since the terminal wasn't functioning due to the earthquake, we received our luggage right in the middle of the field not far from the plain (at least we got all of it this time). We went through passport control inside a tent (as you can see from the pics).
Since Chile is ecologically isolated you are not allowed to bring any fruits/vegetables/animals. Nice dogs go around the passengers and sniff their bags. Don't worry they let SEMPA pass.
The weather in Santiago is great (30C). We stay in a beautiful hostel- La Casa Roja. It is a big 19th century mansion with lots of shared and private rooms, a huge kitchen, a pool, a hair saloon a free internet and other great stuff. Santiago is a nice developing city. It's more developed than some of the east European capitals we know (including one particular eastern capital that has celebrated 3000 years lately). Not at all the third world you might have expected from South America, but a modern and lively capital. The earthquake only slightly effected its buildings. Here and there you can see some bricks that fell of the walls, or some collapsing walls in the older brick building (don't tell mom, but there is some plaster that fell of the walls of the room we're sleeping in). We used the first day to travel around the city center, which was mostly closed, because it was Sunday. We ate at the Marcado Central where they have loads of see food in all colors forms and textures. We can't recommend it, however, because Oren got a nice stomach ache which might be related (and might have nothing to do with it). In all the city you can see Chilean flags and fund raising for the people effected by the earthquake. We stumblled uppon at least two places that held concerts for charity to the earthquake victims.
On the next day we took the bus to Valparaiso, which is a port city on the shores of the Pacific. This is an exciting city indeed. It is spread on the hills around the bay and it seems that there are no two adjacent houses that has the same color. It is also not the most secure city in Chile, so we had to cut on the photography thing after an old lady and two cops warned us and told us to leave the camera inside. However, some pictures were snicked out of the city in a dangerous and successful operation and you can see them in the gallery. We then took the train to Vina del Mar which is a close and more touristic city. It felt much more safe there, but as you can see, there are no pictures from it because it is quite boring. It is mostly a long street with lots of stores. That´s it.
We now getting ready to fly to Punta Arenas. Next stop - Patagonia.

Monday, 8 March 2010

Madrid

Hi all
This is the first post we publish so we wish ourselves ´Happy Happy, Joy Joy´ and a good trip.
The week before was a crazy week, that could have been spread over a month. It included an earthquake, ticket reissues, countless goodbye parties, repeated visits in several equipment stores, last arrangements and some more unplanned events. However, we did maneged to catch our flight and started the trip in Madrid.
We were worried about the mess in Chile and losing the baggage there but we didn´t expect that it will be British Airways that will forget our bags in the flight from London to Madrid. We stayed without one of the bags untill they delivered it to the hostel. But wearing the same underwear for 3 days will not break us! (well, it will break Lilya, but luckily, the bag that was missing wasn´t hers).
Madrid is a beautiful and a very alive city. Too bad that people choose to skip it and go straight to Barcelona. We stay at One Puerto del Sol hostel, it is a very nice place and it is right in the center of the center (Calle Victoria 2). The city is crowded with people all day long and it seems that these people are uneffected by any weather condition. The bars are full and we can hardly get a place in one of the tapas bars in the center. We also waited 15 minutes to get into a great restaurant by the name of ¨La Fluca de Susana¨ on Calle de Arlaban, which is quite close to our hostel (everything is quite close to our hostel). In this place the food and the wine are good and the prices are relatively low.
To our mind, the best thing to do here is just to wander around, even if it´s raining. Unfortunately, most of the time it was raining. But, as many of you know, we are quite equipped for this scenario. We also visited the king´s palace (Palacio Real), which was very fancy and impressive.
The highlight of our Madrid tour was definitely the flamenco show that we saw at the evening. We looked for a small bar with a flamenco show and found the Cardamomo bar (on Cella de Echegaray). They had a flamenco band with two guitars, two singers, one percussionist and two flamenco dancers that were so good that we were simply hypnotized by the movement and the music. It ended too soon, but still it was a great fun.
We are now going to see a museum or two (I´m sure our mothers will be very surprised by this, but don´t get too excited, it´s raining outside, we have nothing else to do). If we´ll do something interesting today we´ll update this post.
So, first post was successfully written. Next stop - Santiago.
Lilya and Oren