You are also invited to visit his blog at: http://awadosa.blogspot.com. You'll find more pictures and stories there.
Friday, 14 May 2010
Guest Picture Album
Ohad has some great photos from the Chilean lake district of us, the Villarica and the waterfall reppeling from Pucon.
You are also invited to visit his blog at: http://awadosa.blogspot.com. You'll find more pictures and stories there.
You are also invited to visit his blog at: http://awadosa.blogspot.com. You'll find more pictures and stories there.
Thursday, 6 May 2010
Pucon and the Villarica volcano
All across South America there are people that are willing to take care of Israelis (for money of course). They get discounts for Israelis all over the town, they sometimes own a hostel full of Israelis, they organize tours, and most important, they speak Hebrew. There is Juan in Puerto Natales, there are Ido & Leon in El Chalten and in El Calafate, and there is Gideon in Pucon.
The Israeli tourists are very different from the European ones. They are usually much younger (right after the Army), and some of them you wouldn't let cross the road by themselves. They sometimes travel in a large and "happy" (loud) groups. Lots of them haven't experienced much in their life, that's why they are willing to climb on very high mountains or take part in rapid 5 rafting (the stormiest one), without being at the Banyas even once. This is why traveling in large groups and getting help from people like Gideon helps those who are less oriented. So if you are parents to a 21 year old girl that can't tie her own shoes, and she decides to go to South America by herself, don't worry, she will find her herd here and manage just fine.
Pucon was the first place we had to deal so closely with all the Israelis. We came to Gideon's after getting a recommendation from friends (Gabi & Achia) in order to book a place on the next morning climb on the Villarica volcano (2847m). It was the first clear day after few rainy ones, so there were a lot of people planning on climbing that morning. You can't climb it without a guide, since the top of the mountain is covered with snow and ice, so you need special equipment for that part.
The next morning, after a "joyful" ride in a minibus full of Israeli kids, we arrived to the lower slopes of the Villarica, only to find out that the ski-lift, that should have save us 400m of climbing, doesn't work (even though there were dozens of people willing to pay for it). So now there were about 1600m for us to climb. Our group consisted of 31 people and 9 instructors. We stopped from time to time for a break and at some point we reached the snowy part and had to put on the crampons on our feet. The climb was quite difficult and the pace was quick. Some of the instructors were very anxious to return before the Inter-Barcelona game at 14:45, so they kept encouraging us to go faster. The last 400 meters were the steepest and it took some time for the instructors to decide whether we can climb it (because of the wind, the ice and the smoke coming out of the volcano). At the end they decided that only those who think that they can keep up with the fast pace can continue, they also asked us to be honest with ourselves. Oren, who was an honest person, and also short of breath, decided not to go on. Lilya turned out to be less honest, but very anxious to see the top of the volcano. The rest of the climb wasn't easy, mostly because of the pace, but not very long. The last dozens of meters of the climb weren't so pleasant, mostly because of the Sulfurous smoke coming out from the crater. But the magnificent view from the top was worth it all. All around the volcano there was a blanket of low clouds, and from a distance we could see the Lanin volcano on the border with Argentina and two other volcanoes peaking from the clouds. The Villarica crater itself was quite deep (about 150 meters), but from time to time the volcano got angry and spit a little bit of lava. Since Lilya didn't carry her own camera, the only pictures from the top were taken by Ohad.
The way down was the fun part. There were some routes on which you can slide down, while sitting on your behind. It kind of reminded the sliders of water parks, except for the freezing cold.
The day ended with Inter passing over Barcelona on the way to the Champions League finals, which was a proper ending for Lilya's good day, and a poor ending to Oren's.
The next day was Oren's birthday, so in addition to the every morning pancakes, he got a stupid looking birthday hats, we all had to wear in the hostel all day long, to the great amusement of the hostel owners, and their kid. Unfortunately, Oren stomach had a celebration of its own, so we decided to spend the day in Pucon.
The town is pretty touristic, full of tourist agencies, restaurants, a "North Face" store and a lake of course. Because of the proximity to the volcano, on the main street there is a special traffic light, that informs you on the condition of the Villarica. We checked it each day, but to our disappointment it stayed green all the time. We did get a chance to see a performance by the Villarica whenever the night was clear. The lava painted the gas coming out the volcano in red so it looked as if it was erupting. Oren spent half an hour taking the picture of it...
That day we met two very nice dogs that kept following us for the rest of our stay and wait for us every time we entered a building, even though they didn't get any food for four days. Their love was truly unconditional (are you listening, cat lovers?). Only on the last day Lilya prepared one of them a chicken soup from some leftovers. The look on their faces when we got on the bus out of Pucon was heart breaking.
On our fourth day in Pucon, Lilya and Ohad went canyoning (SNEPLING MAPALIM in hebrew). It seemed that most of the tourists have left Pucon, and we got a private instructor. They give you a full diving suite and even a waterproof coat, that protects you from the cold water, at least for the first waterfall...
You´re supposed to decline beside the waterfalls, but you can jump in and out of them, while hanging from the rope. All together there were 4 waterfalls to descend. On the next day, the three of us took a half our bus to see the beautiful Ojos de Caburgua waterfalls, and lake Caburgua. Don't miss these if your in Pucon.
We left Pucon (and Chile) on the next day. On the way to the Argentinian border, while crossing the Andes, the scenery was amazing. May is the middle of Autumn here and the rainforest was painted in different shades of yellow and red. We also saw the most breathtaking lake, surrounded by colorful trees covered with mist. It felt like Chile is telling us not to leave, maybe we haven't seen enough of it yet. After crossing to the Argentinian side of the Andes, all the colors magically disappeared.
Chile is definitely the most beautiful country we've seen so far.
Tip 1: Gideon's tourist agency on the main street of Pucon (O'Higgins, what else?) is very recommended. The guys at the office are very nice and helpful, the guides seemed to be very professional, and the prices are relatively low. Don't be intimidated by the large, noisy (or jolly, depends on your perspective) Israeli groups.
Tip 2: The guys at Gideon's recommended us a good place to have lunch at with only one condition: We can't tell anyone else (in Pucon) about it. If you are in Pucon right now, go to the next tip. The place is a very small and local and they want to keep it that way. It is in a private house, with no sign on the door. It is called "La Picada" and it is located on 215 Paraguay street. They only serve two dishes but they are very good and very cheep.
Tip 3: Our hostel is one of the main reasons for staying in Pucon for so long. It is called Maitahue and it is on 965 Cacique Paillalef. The señora of the hostel will probably wait in the bus stop when you'll arrive.
The Israeli tourists are very different from the European ones. They are usually much younger (right after the Army), and some of them you wouldn't let cross the road by themselves. They sometimes travel in a large and "happy" (loud) groups. Lots of them haven't experienced much in their life, that's why they are willing to climb on very high mountains or take part in rapid 5 rafting (the stormiest one), without being at the Banyas even once. This is why traveling in large groups and getting help from people like Gideon helps those who are less oriented. So if you are parents to a 21 year old girl that can't tie her own shoes, and she decides to go to South America by herself, don't worry, she will find her herd here and manage just fine.
Pucon was the first place we had to deal so closely with all the Israelis. We came to Gideon's after getting a recommendation from friends (Gabi & Achia) in order to book a place on the next morning climb on the Villarica volcano (2847m). It was the first clear day after few rainy ones, so there were a lot of people planning on climbing that morning. You can't climb it without a guide, since the top of the mountain is covered with snow and ice, so you need special equipment for that part.
The next morning, after a "joyful" ride in a minibus full of Israeli kids, we arrived to the lower slopes of the Villarica, only to find out that the ski-lift, that should have save us 400m of climbing, doesn't work (even though there were dozens of people willing to pay for it). So now there were about 1600m for us to climb. Our group consisted of 31 people and 9 instructors. We stopped from time to time for a break and at some point we reached the snowy part and had to put on the crampons on our feet. The climb was quite difficult and the pace was quick. Some of the instructors were very anxious to return before the Inter-Barcelona game at 14:45, so they kept encouraging us to go faster. The last 400 meters were the steepest and it took some time for the instructors to decide whether we can climb it (because of the wind, the ice and the smoke coming out of the volcano). At the end they decided that only those who think that they can keep up with the fast pace can continue, they also asked us to be honest with ourselves. Oren, who was an honest person, and also short of breath, decided not to go on. Lilya turned out to be less honest, but very anxious to see the top of the volcano. The rest of the climb wasn't easy, mostly because of the pace, but not very long. The last dozens of meters of the climb weren't so pleasant, mostly because of the Sulfurous smoke coming out from the crater. But the magnificent view from the top was worth it all. All around the volcano there was a blanket of low clouds, and from a distance we could see the Lanin volcano on the border with Argentina and two other volcanoes peaking from the clouds. The Villarica crater itself was quite deep (about 150 meters), but from time to time the volcano got angry and spit a little bit of lava. Since Lilya didn't carry her own camera, the only pictures from the top were taken by Ohad.
The way down was the fun part. There were some routes on which you can slide down, while sitting on your behind. It kind of reminded the sliders of water parks, except for the freezing cold.
The day ended with Inter passing over Barcelona on the way to the Champions League finals, which was a proper ending for Lilya's good day, and a poor ending to Oren's.
The next day was Oren's birthday, so in addition to the every morning pancakes, he got a stupid looking birthday hats, we all had to wear in the hostel all day long, to the great amusement of the hostel owners, and their kid. Unfortunately, Oren stomach had a celebration of its own, so we decided to spend the day in Pucon.
The town is pretty touristic, full of tourist agencies, restaurants, a "North Face" store and a lake of course. Because of the proximity to the volcano, on the main street there is a special traffic light, that informs you on the condition of the Villarica. We checked it each day, but to our disappointment it stayed green all the time. We did get a chance to see a performance by the Villarica whenever the night was clear. The lava painted the gas coming out the volcano in red so it looked as if it was erupting. Oren spent half an hour taking the picture of it...
That day we met two very nice dogs that kept following us for the rest of our stay and wait for us every time we entered a building, even though they didn't get any food for four days. Their love was truly unconditional (are you listening, cat lovers?). Only on the last day Lilya prepared one of them a chicken soup from some leftovers. The look on their faces when we got on the bus out of Pucon was heart breaking.
On our fourth day in Pucon, Lilya and Ohad went canyoning (SNEPLING MAPALIM in hebrew). It seemed that most of the tourists have left Pucon, and we got a private instructor. They give you a full diving suite and even a waterproof coat, that protects you from the cold water, at least for the first waterfall...
You´re supposed to decline beside the waterfalls, but you can jump in and out of them, while hanging from the rope. All together there were 4 waterfalls to descend. On the next day, the three of us took a half our bus to see the beautiful Ojos de Caburgua waterfalls, and lake Caburgua. Don't miss these if your in Pucon.
We left Pucon (and Chile) on the next day. On the way to the Argentinian border, while crossing the Andes, the scenery was amazing. May is the middle of Autumn here and the rainforest was painted in different shades of yellow and red. We also saw the most breathtaking lake, surrounded by colorful trees covered with mist. It felt like Chile is telling us not to leave, maybe we haven't seen enough of it yet. After crossing to the Argentinian side of the Andes, all the colors magically disappeared.
Chile is definitely the most beautiful country we've seen so far.
Tip 1: Gideon's tourist agency on the main street of Pucon (O'Higgins, what else?) is very recommended. The guys at the office are very nice and helpful, the guides seemed to be very professional, and the prices are relatively low. Don't be intimidated by the large, noisy (or jolly, depends on your perspective) Israeli groups.
Tip 2: The guys at Gideon's recommended us a good place to have lunch at with only one condition: We can't tell anyone else (in Pucon) about it. If you are in Pucon right now, go to the next tip. The place is a very small and local and they want to keep it that way. It is in a private house, with no sign on the door. It is called "La Picada" and it is located on 215 Paraguay street. They only serve two dishes but they are very good and very cheep.
Tip 3: Our hostel is one of the main reasons for staying in Pucon for so long. It is called Maitahue and it is on 965 Cacique Paillalef. The señora of the hostel will probably wait in the bus stop when you'll arrive.
Monday, 3 May 2010
Friday, 30 April 2010
Chilean Lake District
There is only a 5 hour ride by bus from Bariloche (Argentina) to Osorno (Chile), but what a difference! Life on the western side of the Andes looks simpler. Throughout our trip across the Chilean lake district we mostly slept in very simple Hospedajes, on the upper floor of crumbling houses made of wood and tin. Nothing fancy like Bariloche. No chocolate as well...
For us, Osorno was the first real city we saw for a long time. Not a small village or touristic shiny city, but a regular town with regular people leaving their regular lives. Most of the tourists won´t stay here for more than the few hours they need to wait for the bus to Pucon. Maybe that is the reason we liked it. There are so few tourists in Osorno that we had to look for hours around the city center until we found the only car rental company in town. If you do pass through Osorno, don't miss the cathedral near the main Plaza. It is definitely the most beautiful cathedral we saw in South America. It is a modern building made of exposed concrete and wood. The interior is stunning and the natural lighting coming from the upper windows creates endless games of light and shadows. Despite its size and the exposed concrete, the feeling is cosy and warm.
The hospedaje we slept in that night was cold, noisy, with no good hot water and uncomfortable beds. We liked it very much! The owners of the hospedaje were the nicest father and son which had 3 dogs! It is amazing how the Chileans will not give up on having a dog (or two, or three, or ten) even if they haven´t got enough money for themselves. Two of the dos were a sheep like small mother and daughter and the third was the a handsome Afgan Borzoi named Simon (as can be seen in the picture).
The next day in the afternoon we drove to Puerto Varas, passing on the way the amazing view of a full rainbow above lake Llanquihue in Frutillar. Puerto Varas was the most touristic stop on our trip to the lake district. There are some important signs for touristic towns, such as the large tourist information booth and fancy restaurants. But the most important sign is the number of trekking gear shops, and the expensive "North Face" store.
The Chilean lake district has a long German history and it can be seen in the buildings and especially in the food. Fruit pies (kuchens) can be found everywhere. The hostel we slept in (a huge labyrinth of bedrooms, toilets and stairs) had a lot of "Willkommen" signs, as well as a "real German breakfast" that turned out to be the regular bread and butter.
The landscape of the Chilean lake district is much greener than that of the Argentinian which is in the rain shadow of the Andes. There are a lot of volcanoes on the Chilean side and you can see at least one of them from practically everywhere, if there is a clear weather. On the day we left Puerto Varas, unfortunately, the weather was not clear at all, so we couldn't see the Osorno volcano (which is actually quite far from the city bearing its name), even from the road that climbs it. We drove on this road and entered a thick fog, until we almost couldn't see the road and then gave up. We decided to spend the night at Ensenada, on the shores of lake Llanquihue, right bellow the Osorno and wait for the next day. We spent the night at a small hospedaje, with an old landlady. Sleeping in those small houses is like staying at a different type of grandparents everyday. For a single night, they are your family away from home.
It was a good thing that we stayed another day because the next day was clear and we could see that the town is surrounded by no less than 3 volcanoes. Imagine leaving in such a place...
We drove to Lago Todos los Santos (the lake of all saints), stopping on the way at the amazing Petrohue waterfalls. These powerful, turquoise waterfalls cut through the black volcanic stone, while the Osorno volcano with it's snowy top looks from above. Near Lago Todos los Santos we did a few hours hike, on the black shores of the lake. We climbed again (by car) the Osorno in the afternoon only to discover that despite its size, the Osorno is actually a very shy mountain. As soon as we started driving on the ascending road, a cloud came from nowhere and covered its peak. It stayed there exactly until we got down and then left.
On the next day, we drove between lakes (Rupanco, Puyehue and Ranco) and small villages, passing across 3 more volcanoes. As we already said in the previous post, the beauty of a lake depends strongly on the weather and the lighting. In our case, the grey clouds and the lack of sunshine made this day a bit less impressive. However, we drove through rural areas so beautiful that we actually considered buying ourselves a small farm with few cows and sheep in the area. When the sun did come out, the view of the Puntiagudo volcano above the fields and Rupanco lake was spectacular. While driving we stumbled upon a river (a big one) crossing the road in the middle. The only way to cross it was a by a small ferry, fitted to no more than 2 cars, that crossed the river whenever a car needed a ride.
The biggest advantage in having a car is the possibility to go off trek and sleep in small towns like Paillaco, where we slept that night. Paillaco proved again that these small towns have a magic of their own. We looked for quite a lot of time until we found the only place we could sleep in (except the Hotel). The house (as can be seen at the pictures) belonged to a very nice grandfather, who also was a violin teacher. We also ate a great (and very cheap) beef stew at a local place he recommended ("El Rapido").
We completed our tour through the Chilean lakes on the next day, driving through smaller and bumpier roads near the lakes Panguipulli, Calafquen and some smaller lakes. On the road to Puerto Fuy, we passed through the Hulla Hulla waterfalls, which really worth the long drive. The whole forest is a private park, so there is also a luxury hotel deep in the woods. Some lucky (and no doubt a fan of the "Lord Of The Rings" movie) architect got a free hand in designing this hotel. The results is a fairy kingdom made of wood, with hanged bridges leading to it. It was too dark to take good pictures, so you can try imagining it by yourself.
We had another half a day to spend until we had to return the car, so we visited Valdivia. According to the Lonely Planet, this is a nice studential city with a good wind from the sea. Once again the Lonley Planet proved to be inefficient and to miss the real issue. On the boardwalk, near the main square there is a fish market. The sellers clean the fish and throw the leftovers to river behind the counters. This simple act attracts countless birds to the place and several sea lions. They all stand less than a meter away from you. The birds (including seagulls,cormorans and large eagle size predator birds) are flying back and forth all the time trying to grab a piece of food. This place is a heaven for photographers and animal lovers. The locals seems to like this place, but the girls in the tourist information nearby didn't even mention it, so we almost lost the greatest attraction in Valdivia.
We returned the car that day and took the the bus to the next stop in our journey - The lovely town of Pucon, which will be the center of the next post.
Tip 1: If you anywhere near Lago Todos los Santos, you must visit the magnificent Petrohue falls, and if you are planning on staying in the area, you should stay in the "Escala II" hospedaje in Ensenada.
Tip 2: The Copec (the national gas stations company) map of Chile is a must for anyone travelling in this country. 3$ will buy you all of Chile.
Tip 3: Some of the roads in the Chilean lake district are much worse even from the ones in Carretera Austral. So you should drive accordingly, and take into the account the capability of your vehicle. We rented a good but very small car (for 3 adults), and there were places that it couldn´t pass so we didn´t even try.
Tip 4: Don't miss the fish market in Valdivia, and not only because of the fish, (read above, if you hadn't already). And while you are there, you can enjoy one of the many wonderful fish and sea food restaurants across the street.
For us, Osorno was the first real city we saw for a long time. Not a small village or touristic shiny city, but a regular town with regular people leaving their regular lives. Most of the tourists won´t stay here for more than the few hours they need to wait for the bus to Pucon. Maybe that is the reason we liked it. There are so few tourists in Osorno that we had to look for hours around the city center until we found the only car rental company in town. If you do pass through Osorno, don't miss the cathedral near the main Plaza. It is definitely the most beautiful cathedral we saw in South America. It is a modern building made of exposed concrete and wood. The interior is stunning and the natural lighting coming from the upper windows creates endless games of light and shadows. Despite its size and the exposed concrete, the feeling is cosy and warm.
The hospedaje we slept in that night was cold, noisy, with no good hot water and uncomfortable beds. We liked it very much! The owners of the hospedaje were the nicest father and son which had 3 dogs! It is amazing how the Chileans will not give up on having a dog (or two, or three, or ten) even if they haven´t got enough money for themselves. Two of the dos were a sheep like small mother and daughter and the third was the a handsome Afgan Borzoi named Simon (as can be seen in the picture).
The next day in the afternoon we drove to Puerto Varas, passing on the way the amazing view of a full rainbow above lake Llanquihue in Frutillar. Puerto Varas was the most touristic stop on our trip to the lake district. There are some important signs for touristic towns, such as the large tourist information booth and fancy restaurants. But the most important sign is the number of trekking gear shops, and the expensive "North Face" store.
The Chilean lake district has a long German history and it can be seen in the buildings and especially in the food. Fruit pies (kuchens) can be found everywhere. The hostel we slept in (a huge labyrinth of bedrooms, toilets and stairs) had a lot of "Willkommen" signs, as well as a "real German breakfast" that turned out to be the regular bread and butter.
The landscape of the Chilean lake district is much greener than that of the Argentinian which is in the rain shadow of the Andes. There are a lot of volcanoes on the Chilean side and you can see at least one of them from practically everywhere, if there is a clear weather. On the day we left Puerto Varas, unfortunately, the weather was not clear at all, so we couldn't see the Osorno volcano (which is actually quite far from the city bearing its name), even from the road that climbs it. We drove on this road and entered a thick fog, until we almost couldn't see the road and then gave up. We decided to spend the night at Ensenada, on the shores of lake Llanquihue, right bellow the Osorno and wait for the next day. We spent the night at a small hospedaje, with an old landlady. Sleeping in those small houses is like staying at a different type of grandparents everyday. For a single night, they are your family away from home.
It was a good thing that we stayed another day because the next day was clear and we could see that the town is surrounded by no less than 3 volcanoes. Imagine leaving in such a place...
We drove to Lago Todos los Santos (the lake of all saints), stopping on the way at the amazing Petrohue waterfalls. These powerful, turquoise waterfalls cut through the black volcanic stone, while the Osorno volcano with it's snowy top looks from above. Near Lago Todos los Santos we did a few hours hike, on the black shores of the lake. We climbed again (by car) the Osorno in the afternoon only to discover that despite its size, the Osorno is actually a very shy mountain. As soon as we started driving on the ascending road, a cloud came from nowhere and covered its peak. It stayed there exactly until we got down and then left.
On the next day, we drove between lakes (Rupanco, Puyehue and Ranco) and small villages, passing across 3 more volcanoes. As we already said in the previous post, the beauty of a lake depends strongly on the weather and the lighting. In our case, the grey clouds and the lack of sunshine made this day a bit less impressive. However, we drove through rural areas so beautiful that we actually considered buying ourselves a small farm with few cows and sheep in the area. When the sun did come out, the view of the Puntiagudo volcano above the fields and Rupanco lake was spectacular. While driving we stumbled upon a river (a big one) crossing the road in the middle. The only way to cross it was a by a small ferry, fitted to no more than 2 cars, that crossed the river whenever a car needed a ride.
The biggest advantage in having a car is the possibility to go off trek and sleep in small towns like Paillaco, where we slept that night. Paillaco proved again that these small towns have a magic of their own. We looked for quite a lot of time until we found the only place we could sleep in (except the Hotel). The house (as can be seen at the pictures) belonged to a very nice grandfather, who also was a violin teacher. We also ate a great (and very cheap) beef stew at a local place he recommended ("El Rapido").
We completed our tour through the Chilean lakes on the next day, driving through smaller and bumpier roads near the lakes Panguipulli, Calafquen and some smaller lakes. On the road to Puerto Fuy, we passed through the Hulla Hulla waterfalls, which really worth the long drive. The whole forest is a private park, so there is also a luxury hotel deep in the woods. Some lucky (and no doubt a fan of the "Lord Of The Rings" movie) architect got a free hand in designing this hotel. The results is a fairy kingdom made of wood, with hanged bridges leading to it. It was too dark to take good pictures, so you can try imagining it by yourself.
We had another half a day to spend until we had to return the car, so we visited Valdivia. According to the Lonely Planet, this is a nice studential city with a good wind from the sea. Once again the Lonley Planet proved to be inefficient and to miss the real issue. On the boardwalk, near the main square there is a fish market. The sellers clean the fish and throw the leftovers to river behind the counters. This simple act attracts countless birds to the place and several sea lions. They all stand less than a meter away from you. The birds (including seagulls,cormorans and large eagle size predator birds) are flying back and forth all the time trying to grab a piece of food. This place is a heaven for photographers and animal lovers. The locals seems to like this place, but the girls in the tourist information nearby didn't even mention it, so we almost lost the greatest attraction in Valdivia.
We returned the car that day and took the the bus to the next stop in our journey - The lovely town of Pucon, which will be the center of the next post.
Tip 1: If you anywhere near Lago Todos los Santos, you must visit the magnificent Petrohue falls, and if you are planning on staying in the area, you should stay in the "Escala II" hospedaje in Ensenada.
Tip 2: The Copec (the national gas stations company) map of Chile is a must for anyone travelling in this country. 3$ will buy you all of Chile.
Tip 3: Some of the roads in the Chilean lake district are much worse even from the ones in Carretera Austral. So you should drive accordingly, and take into the account the capability of your vehicle. We rented a good but very small car (for 3 adults), and there were places that it couldn´t pass so we didn´t even try.
Tip 4: Don't miss the fish market in Valdivia, and not only because of the fish, (read above, if you hadn't already). And while you are there, you can enjoy one of the many wonderful fish and sea food restaurants across the street.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
